There's no better place to get your Boxing Day fresh air fix than somewhere along the Suffolk coast (weather permitting). This circular stroll at Aldeburgh and Thorpeness is ideal for all the family, including the dog
In 2003, Maggie Hambling's Scallop was installed on Aldeburgh beach. It divided townsfolk. Walking north along the shingle beach towards Thorpeness, I wonder what all the fuss was about. The sublime sculpture is now as much a part of Aldeburgh's seafront as the blackened fishermen's huts, lifeboat station and the lookouts.
This walk starts at the Scallop, round and through Thorpeness, taking in parts of the Thorpeness North Walk and South Walk, as well as short sections of the Suffolk Coast Path and Sandlings Walk. We're using our trusty Ordnance Survey map. Public footpaths - where eyes are drawn when studying an OS Explorer - have to be treated with caution. Although they denote a right of way they can undo the unwary. How often have we followed the green broken lines only to find some all-consuming quagmire or perilous ravine standing in our way?
Dismantled railways are different. A magnet for dog walkers, cyclists and strollers, the trails left in the wake of Beeching's axe are sheltered and safe, with nothing more taxing than gentle inclines. Perfect places to walk, especially for less experienced amblers who only venture out on occasion.
We head off - wife Clare, dog Farley and me - north towards Thorpeness. After half a mile of beach and dunes, we turn inland, (1) cross the road and follow the path towards the disused Saxmundham to Aldeburgh branch line of the London and North Eastern Railway. (2) Flanked by pines, copses and bracken-lined margins, the permissive footpath travels north towards Thorpeness. Sheltered from the wind, it feels much warmer here than on the beach path.
We pass several people walking dogs. It's clearly a popular spot. Just south of Thorpeness, our path merges with the Sandlings Walk, then flirts with the western shore of Thorpeness Meare on its way north to Sizewell. After a mile and a quarter, and close to the B1353, a concrete statiion platform lies derelict among trees and autumn leaves. Thorpeness Halt opened in 1914 to serve the new visitors to the developing resort. But the intervention of war meant its use fell short of expectations and the little station never grew from three converted railway carriages that housed its essentials. Like 2,362 other rural stations, it was recommended for closure by Dr Beeching and fell silent on September 12 1966.
Across the road, the former railway line and footpath pass to the right of a bungalow, with the eighth tee of Thorpeness Golf Club on the left. The path swings northeast (3) towards Sizewell Hall estate, owned by the Ogilvie family since 1859. It was here that Thorpeness was conceived. Glencairn Stuart Ogilvie, the seventh of eight children, inherited his parents' Suffolk land and his vision for the resort of Thorpeness became reality.
He started the development around 1910. The Meare was begun in 1911 and opened in 1913, and what is now the country club was opened in 1912. The dream was for a holiday village with something for everyone to enjoy. Ogilvie believed in the great outdoors and encouraging people to get outside - don't we all after a dose of Christmas cabin fever?
The Sandlings Walk skirts Sizewell Hall, but we take the path right onto Sizewell Cliff (4) and back south towards Thorpeness. This is a small section of the Suffolk Coast Path. Thorpeness (5) is like no other place in Suffolk, some would say like no other place on Earth. The world has changed enormously since the resort was created, but Thorpeness has moved on just enough to keep itself comfortable during its timeless snooze. At The Dolphin, the village's popular, dog-friendly pub, we enjoy lunch and a pint or two, served by the most welcoming staff.
Although Thorpeness nestles in a duned landscape and salty air, it has freshwater coursing in its veins. The Meare, a man-made lake, is a safe place for children to learn to sail and row. Many of the colourful rowing boats belong to the original 1913 fleet. Ogilvie was great friends with Peter Pan author JM Barrie and his influence is here in the naming of islands in the Meare. It has changed little, so that generations can visit and revisit, creating fond memories.
We return along the beach with Farley (dogs are not allowed on a small stretch of the beach between May and September, otherwise it is unrestricted), a delightful stroll shared with other walkers. Autumn's crisp afternoon and low sunlight has attracted scores for a day at the seaside. A stroll along the Suffolk coast is fulfilling at any time of the year, providing you pick your day and your clothing wisely. Autumn hues, long, dark shadows and a fresh breeze have have made out visit as rewarding as one in the heat of midsummer.
Compass points
Distance: 6.6 miles/10.6 km
Time: 3 hours (plus stop for lunch)
Start/finish: Scallop on Aldeburgh Beach
Parking: in Aldeburgh (beach car park)
Getting there: A12 then A1094 to Aldeburgh
Access: public footpaths, shingle beach path
Map: OS Explorer 212 Woodbridge and Saxmundham
Ts & Ps: Thorpeness and Aldeburgh
